Friday, February 11, 2011

December '10




So, before Americaland, I finished up teaching at Rfunsa Basic. The teachers threw a little "going away" party for me and we drank real beer that was actually cold, carbonated, and served in a bottle. It was a big deal. As a gift, they gave me a collared shirt that said Rfunsa Basic on it. That was enough to make me feel my service complete. I felt accomplished. The stipulation was that I had to go into the other classroom and put it on and upon returning, dance to the music we had playing from a small stereo. Let's just say we all had a good laugh. My hips are more attached to my waist than any other Zambian.
After the school term, me and 3 other volunteers each took 3 girls and 1 teacher (24 total) from our villages to a week long girls empowerment camp, Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World). We applied for a grant from USAID that gave us the financing to pay for food, lodging, and transportation in Southern Zambia at Lake Kariba. A friend of a Peace Corps staff member owned the lodge and gave us a substantial discount so we could afford the destination. The planning began back in June '10. The days consisted of morning discussions on topics such as HIV/AIDS, rape and sexual assault, assertiveness, and sugar-daddies. The afternoons consisted of arts and crafts and games. I began the workshop with a self-esteem building presentation. I asked the girls who they thought the most important person in the world is. They replied the president, the chief, their mother, their father. I then passed around a folder with the words "The most important person in the world" written on it. One by one they opened it and inside they found a mirror. They were all surprised and shied away at the site, but quickly got the message that we are all equal and all the most important person. It was a fun way to begin. Minutes after giving my presentation, I became very weak and began to shiver. I went and laid down and soon my back and neck became very stiff and a monstrous headache set in. My temperature became 103. I called medical and they said start taking your Coartem, you probably have Malaria. So, aside from feeling like death for a couple of days, the camp was a great success. The girls got to learn how to use a shower and a toilet, they went on their first boat ride, and they got to eat food that was prepared for them.
A new batch of education volunteers arrived a week ago and 3 of them got to spend 3 days with me to become acquainted with Zambian life and the Zambian school system. We had a great time and all seemed excited to get the training process over with so they too could begin living the dream. Ironically, again, the morning they were to be picked up and taken back to the training site, I woke up with a temperature, my stomach was not cooperating, and I had the energy of something with no energy. Medical told me to come in with the cruiser that was picking up the new volunteers. After breaking out into profusive sweats and nearly losing consciousness, I arrived at medical and once again began taking Coartem, the Malaria medicine. I was down and out for the last few days, but you can't keep a good man down, and you can't keep me down either. I just took my last few pills and will be heading back to site this afternoon or tomorrow morning. Funny as it may sound, and I say this now that I feel better, this is why I signed up. There is something to be said for feeling a sickness of the world (more people die every year of Malaria than any other reason in Zambia), staring it in the eye, and falling upon a new understanding, an understanding of what others feel in times of sickness, and an understanding of what it feels like to be healthy, again.
It's rainy season so the caterpillars are out which means protein for dinner. Picture one is Lamba, Vuca, and Chiza getting the caterpillars ready to fry. The other picture is of all of us at Camp Glow. I'm the tallest one with a green shirt in the back.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Welcome back

Welcome back to Zambia. Yes, welcome back. I went to America and now I'm back. I'm back in the hut, back in the heat, back in the sweat, back in nature. I had a wonderful stay in Americaland and it surprisingly did not go by as fast as I thought it would, but, I told myself before I came that I didn't want it to, and it worked. I, being my usual self, put off all the people I wanted to contact and all the things I wanted to do for my return until the last day, so I didn't call half the people I wanted to and didn't get my ipod ready for another year and a half of Africa, etc. Oh well, Celine and I are still on excellent terms. Like I may have mentioned before, living in the village is not difficult, it is the day or two (give or take a week) that you return to it that are. So, I was not looking forward to leaving a roof that didn't leak, a toilet that existed, and a sleep uninterrupted by the flight of bats. So be it. I left America on a Wednesday, literally travelled as fast as I could (missed a connection), and arrived in my village on Saturday. I swept all the rat and bat poop off my floor, fetched water at the well, got my books in order, and was ready for the first day of school on Monday. I arrived at school a little before 7a.m. knowing that nothing really happens the first week except the sweeping of classrooms and the slashing of grass (there are no lawn mowers). I was quickly notified that a 7th grade student had passed away the day before due to Malaria and the funeral was now, let's go. I hadn't yet been to a Zambian funeral, but it is common in the village to attend even if you are not close with the family. After following two fellow teachers, Mr. Bambala and Mr. Mwaba, through the bush for 20 minutes or so we came to a house (hut) that many women were sitting around and a short distance off the house were all the men. Inside the house I could hear women wailing, a long and somber cry. After a few minutes and a lot of greetings, all the men proceeded to the house. A few entered and then exited with a casket on their shoulders. So began the procession to the burial ground. A long single file line of about a hundred people or so followed the casket into the bush for another 20 minute journey. During the walk, the family wailed, but as they did they and others also sang. The song sounded as such that it was difficult to distinguish between the crying and the singing. It was somehow beautiful to me, definitely unlike anything I have ever heard. I remember waking up that morning waking up that morning thinking to myself that it is very possible to be elsewhere, but there and then all I could think to myself was how could I imagine being anywhere else. That moment, that place, that experience, that feeling. The casket was buried, words were said, there was a meal, and then it was back to the market, field, or school where life continued on. I'm back.